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New Bench Hooks for the New Bench

I spent so much time building and perfecting my Roubo workbench that it seemed only fitting that I retire my cobbled together shooting board and bench hook for newer, smarter, and faster models. In the digital age we are blessed with a plethora of information when you embark on a new project. In this case it was more curse than blessing. The sheer volume of great data on bench hooks and shooting boards is astounding. Hardwood, softwood, or plywood? Length, width? Fence height, fence material? Jeesh so many opinions and so much talking about what are supposed to be simple appliances.

I guess I shouldn’t really complain because I am one the masses contributing content and opinions to the whirlpool. I just didn’t want to spend a bunch of time considering how to make them when I had some high quality scrap baltic birch ply sitting in the corner of the shop. It’s flat and already cut in sizes that make sense.

I made two hooks, a low profile and a miter hook. Both are sized to accommodate the average work I would be doing.
Bench Hooks

The low profile hook has a fence that is only 1/4″ tall and I will be using it for small parts work. This is a quick way to plane small parts by butting them up against the fence and still being able to plane across them. I made the bed of the hook 12″ wide and 18″ long to give me plenty of space the work. I may end up using it as a backer board when chopping dovetails too.
Low Profile Bench Hook Fence

The miter hook is really just a normal bench hook but I made the fence 1.5″ tall and cut two 45 degree and one 90 degree kerf in it. I also stopped the fence short of the left side of the hook to allow cutting there too. With the taller fence I can register a back saw in the kerf and make very accurate cuts. Like the low profile hook the fence is attached to the base using Miller dowels.
Bench Hook 90 degree slot

Finally I made a new shooting board. My old board was no longer flat and I can never get the fence right. I had screwed the fence in place and with years of unscrewing and screwing the holes don’t keep the fence steady. So here I made the shooting platform out of 1/2″ ply set on 3/4″ ply for the chute. I can shoot wider stock now as more of the plane blade is exposed. The board is 18 by 15 with plane chutes on either side of the board. I am a lefty but my Philly skew miter is made for right handed use. (my oversight, I should have told Philly my gaucheness) No matter and it is still easy to use and works like a dream. I added the left hand chute in case I wanted to square up another end of the board and could keep my same 2 reference faces against the fence. Thanks for the tip Bob Rozaieski!
New Shooting board

The fence is hard maple and it is attached to threaded inserts in the base. I drilled over sized holes in the fence so that I can adjust the fence to keep it square.
Shooting Board Fence Adjuster

In use the board works great. I was a little concerned that the fence might shift but so far it is rock solid. I guess if it becomes a problem I can add some sandpaper to the bottom.

So those are my new appliances and I have already gotten a lot of use out of them since I started my end table for The Wood Whisperer Guild Build. I’m sure you will be seeing these boards a lot in the future.

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Ben Lowery

Nice hooks!

This may sound insane, but I’m just starting to work with hand tools and I was wondering… how do you ensure that the kerfs you cut in the miter hook are exactly 90 / 45 and perfectly straight?

    Shannon

    Proper layout with a marking knife on all 3 sides of the fence was all that was needed. The tiny kerf made by the knife helps to guide the saw as you start the cut. Besides even if the kerf is slightly off you can use a shooting board to hone in on the angle later. In this case these cuts came out about dead on accurate for the level of precision I normally need. I could see needing to shoot the 45s if I was making a frame in order to ensure all 4 corners meet cleanly but for most of my work this is precise enough.

Bob Rozaieski

Nice job Shannon! In all fairness to the original designer, the two ramped shooting board idea wasn’t mine, though I honestly can’t remember where I first saw it. To be honest though, while the theory of it’s use makes perfect sense, I hardly use the second ramp. I probably wouldn’t make it with two ramps had I to do it again.

Love that Philly miter plane (or should I say mitre plane; it is English after all).

    Shannon

    Bob, agreed, but since I am left handed I figured I had better make a left hand chute if my right hand isn’t up to the task. Yes I actually typed mitre but spellcheck fixed it in it’s infinite wisdom. What can I say it’s ethnocentric software.

Aluminum Extrusions

Lookin’ great. Amazing the work you do with hand tools. You are an inspirtation to us all!

Trent Tunstall

Why do you want the fence on your shooting board to be removable? Why not put it on permenantly?

    Shannon

    There would be nothing wrong with permanently attaching the fence. I have several hooks and a shooter that are set up that way. I think when I built this model I was looking for one of those super versions that had a lot of adjustable bells and whistles add on capabilities. The simplest and easiest would be to make it permanent. If the cut needs to be adjusted then add a piece of tape as a shim.

Shannon Beaman (SMEAC)

Love the new kit! I know this is an old post, but you mention a “paring hook” in your 10/28/2016 Shop Update concerning Bench Questions. I wasn’t sure what that was, but certainly sounds handy 🧐. So I went to Google and came out empty handed. I can’t find a search function on your blog either, but this was the closest and was contemporaneous to the Shop Update and finishing of your bench. Did you misspeak or is there in fact a n appliance I’ve missed called a paring hook?
Hope you’ve had a wonderful summer and like I told you before, I’m excited to purchase a membership this fall during your annual sale you run during Thanksgiving. I’ve asked for it as an early Christmas gift from Wendy and I think she’ll oblige me! Hope you see this and can respond
V/R, Shannon (SMEAC)
beamansw.cwo3.usmc.ret@gmail.com

    Shannon

    A paring hook is a bench hook with a really low fence. I don’t know if that is an official term but it is what I have called it to differentiate it from my sawing hooks. For example I have 2 of them and the fence is less than 1/4″ high. I build one as an applied project in Semester 1 to demonstrate match planing and general milling of a rough sawn board. You can get a good look at a plywood one I built in this video on YouTube or over on this post. If you watch the introductory video for Semester 1 on The Hand Tool School you will see the paring hook show up everywhere. For that matter watch any of my videos in the last 10 years and you will probably see me using it on every project.

    BTW the search bar is at the bottom of the page, just at the top of the black block that makes up the site footer.