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Tea Caddy Design Critique

I’ll admit it. I’m not much of a designer. I like simple stuff and usually I’m able to find a Queen Anne or Shaker piece that is just the chest, chair, or table I’m looking for. Of course I add my own embellishments but most of the time that is driven by a functional need like adding a drawer or changing dimensions. Aesthetically I will add a bead here and there, inlay something, or change the moulding profile (easy when you have hollows and rounds). I don’t really consider this to be design. It’s more like embellishment. There is just so much incredible work that has come before me that I haven’t been pushed to create something new. The design gurus out there probably will scoff and cite my case as the reason for the death of new ideas and stagnation of the furniture industry. Oh well, I’ll just add this to the long list of things that are wrong with me.

Queen Anne Tea Caddy

18th Century Original Tea Caddy

However, building projects that are inspired by or “lightly” reproduced from an existing piece has one nice advantage. Those original pieces make a great measuring stick. Recently I visited the Dewitt Wallace Museum in Williamsburg, VA and got up close with one of my inspirations. This Queen Anne Tea Caddy is the original of one I built as a Hand Tool School project last year. I took my measurements and construction cues from a photograph in “Southern Furniture 1680 1830, The Colonial Williamsburg Collection“. I had to make some guesses on size and construction and I’m not sure if the original has a secret compartment. I added one to mine because it sounded like fun. So when I saw the caddy again, this time in person, it was a great opportunity to step back and honestly assess how I did. Shown is a picture I took during my visit to the museum.

Hand Tool School Tea Caddy

My version of the same Tea Caddy

Both pieces were built entirely by hand in Mahogany. I took some poetic license with the moulding profiles and used plain, straight grained Mahogany instead of the more interesting grain of the original. A lot of these original caddies were actually veneered so it is possible this is a veneer covering.

So what can I learn from this “reproduction”. Woodworking wise, I’m pretty proud of myself for executing a close copy entirely by hand. I’m not happy with the tiny bit of end grain visible on the right corner that gives away the secret compartment and should have utilized a miter joint when I made that sliding panel. That would have matched with the rest of the mitered corners.

My hardware choices were rather generic but I’m pretty happy with the handle and escutcheon I bought from Horton Brasses. I could have made an attempt to find some Mahogany with more figure, but I was hoping to stick with a more common look. In hindsight, I think I could have done a better job on stock selection. My decision to add a rice paper liner to the lid was driven by some research I did on the originals. I like the look but should have taken more care after gluing to make sure the paper didn’t wrinkle. I would like to hear from any of you if you know a good way to prevent this from happening. I used hide glue so I’m sure the water base has something to do with the wrinkling.

Hand Tool School Tea Caddy Secret CompartmentI think I missed on the proportions a bit and made the lid moulding a bit too tall for the rest of the box giving it a top heavy appearance. I think I tried for too much there and should have gone with a less is more approach. Ironically, I think I missed an opportunity by not adding the bead profile to the bottom of the lide. Side by side comparison really shows me what an impact that little bead has on the overall look. Not sure why I omitted that. On the converse I like my treatment for the base moulding. The simple ovolo and bracket foot looks nice while I feel the original is too cramped. The original would have been a more complex moulding to make but I don’t think the skill required to make it is much different from my treatment so I’ll call that a wash.

The most glaring thing that bothers me is the finish. My dye job to prematurely age the Mahogany is muddy and I didn’t make any attempt to fill the pores for a glassy finish. Like most woodworkers, I tend to rush the finish after hours of woodworking and the result is obvious. I think this is the biggest lesson to learn from this comparison and something I need to really take to heart in my future builds.

In the end, being able to hold my work right up against the original is very instructive. My original intention wasn’t to exactly reproduce the 18th century model, but I think I was able to capture the feel of the piece and that makes me happy.

Your Turn

What do you think? Did I get the look and feel right of this piece? What could I have done better and what should I work on for my next piece? Seriously, don’t pull any punches, I would like some honest feedback.

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Adam Maxwell

Well, you already told us all that’s wrong with it! Yours does look a little busy on top, if that’s the word I want; lots of molding/raising in a small area. Not sure about the feet; I can’t see yours because of the shavings. Would it be possible to do similar views of them? That’s about as negative as I can get, but it still looks better than my work.

Ethan

As far as the “aging treatment” goes… it has been a while since I did my tests, and I don’t have my notes in front of me (or behind me, for that matter), but I seem to recall that fuming mahogany darkened it up significantly, right along with my white oak. You might want to consider giving that a try the next time you want to darken it up.

Fuming Tip: When fuming small projects with ammonia, I use an old igloo cooler instead of trying to make a tent with plastic or cardboard.

I think the awkward part of the lid height is in the cove. It just looks a little too tall. If it were a little more squat, it might look a little better.

I totally get your staying away from more figured mahogany, by the way. It’s hard to look at an old piece, with the beautifully darkened and aged mahogany, and compare it to the seemingly wild salmon-colored board in front of you and imagine it looking that good in 100 years. I do the same thing.

I have a mahogany dovetailed box (my first REAL attempt at dovetails in a project) sitting in my workshop, just waiting for hinges and a finish (and a half-mortise lock, if I decide to try and add one, even though the box is assembled already). Mmmm… I’ll probably end up lining the inside in Spanish Cedar, as well, because that’s where my dovetails look wonky (because they’re undercut too much and a little past the baseline in a few places). I think you’re right, though – something like a dovetailed box or a tea caddy deserves a finer, pore-filled gloss finish.

I was thinking about doing a shellac seal coat then trying to fill the pores with shellac and rot stone., ending with a sort of French Polish. Thoughts? To throw it back at you, how would you go about finishing your box now, if you were to do it over?

Jeremy

I am having trouble gauging your proportions in comparison to the original. The photo of the original is from straight on, and your two are from somewhat of an ariel view. From those angles, it looks like the original is a little wider?

My honest, no pulled punches opinion? I like it, you should be happy with your results. It has its flaws, that you know about, that you pointed out, that you learned from. What else could you ask for?

Dan Roper

Hi Shannon,
Once again, in my opinion (the one that really matters to me), you have hit another homer. I actually prefer your taller top design. I do have to agree with you on the rice paper….not your best effort. Would love to have a listing of the dimensions.
I really enjoy your work,
Dan

Robert Easton

Now, where was it last week that I read about s woodworker who always points out the problems he knows but others might not discover? What compels many of us to do that? Pursuit of the impossible, I suspect.

Now that you’ve told us about all the problems, I’m sure the many many many people who would have liked it earlier won’t have anything to do with it now. So, since it’s worthless, just mail it to me.

It really is a very handsome piece and a very pleasing replica of a classic design. Well done Shannon!

    Shannon

    I know I know Bob, but it wasn’t my intention to point out flaws. I was seeking a post mortem of sorts when confronted with the original and since the people that read this blog are fellow woodworkers it seemed a good forum for it.

Robert Easton

To be more constructive, here’s an article about using rice paper. It mentions using either wallpaper paste, or better yet “home prepared rice paste.” http://www.shojistyles.com/paper/

Jeremy

“I’m not happy with the tiny bit of end grain visible on the right corner that gives away the secret compartment and should have utilized a miter joint when I made that sliding panel.”

To me, this is the only thing that I found jarring about your work. It caught my eye immediately.

But that’s just one small blemish on an otherwise excellent piece that, I imagine, will age very well.

And hey, secret compartment! Awesome. I bet the original didn’t have one.

As for the rice paper, I can’t imagine you do a lot of it so chalk it up as a learning experience.

Rylie Collins

I honestly really want this, it’s so beautiful and unique that i’d pay for it