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My Rip Sawing Technique

Shift Your Weight Forward and Saw Between the Bench

This week I’m answering a claim that I’m “using my sawbench wrong” by talking about how my sawing technique has evolved over the years in my own work but also through teaching other woodworkers through The Hand Tool School. But how I used to use my sawbench is very different today than it was even 3 years ago.

The secret to sawing accurately with any saw is letting the saw to the work.

To let the saw do the work you have to first get out of its way. This means body mechanics are so important. Working at the right height is a first step and that’s why a saw bench is helpful. But you are only halfway there unless you setting up with the right body position for a true cut and maintaining that position throughout the entire cut.

Here’s Some More Hand Sawing Stuff

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ChrisG

Awesome build Shannon. I’ve been lurking around your blog for a while now and must say I love your approach to woodworking techniques and your explanations for what you do and why you do it. Been woodworking less then two years and have been VERY in to hand tools for about a year now. Your blog is now one of 5 blogs I now check daily. The others being Mr. Schwarz’s, Mr. Fidgen’s, Mr. Spagnuolo’s, and Mr. Vanderlist’s. Thank you for providing such great knowledge and content.

Best,

Chris Griggs in New Orleans

    Shannon

    Chris thanks so much for the feedback and I’m glad you are enjoying the site. If you are in to hand tools then you have to check out Bob Rozaieski’s site at http://logancabinetshoppe.weebly.com/ as well. This is easily one of the best hand tool site on the net today. There are many more but Bob’s is one of the first sites I check for galootishness.

ChrisG

Shannon, I actually discovered that site just a week or two ago. Watched his series on building the Nicholson Bench and on his Wenzloff saw kit this past weekend. Excellent stuff!

Rob Bois

What no Benny Hill music for the dovetail cutting scene? Nice work Shannon (except for the plywood bottom – shame shame shame). For the record, I have never relied more heavily on my big iron since I finished my hand tool shaker table, I know exactly how you feel! Can’t wait to see how the new Earlex works out too.

runningwood

Shannon, great job on the table and the video series. How will you be attaching the top ? I assume wood “clips” in a groove ?

You add great perspective to WTO , the other two were getting rusty 😉

The Village Carpenter

Nice job, Shannon. The table looks great! I have yet to build an entire project with just handtools, but it’s nice to know that if the electric goes out, we can keep right on building.

    Shannon

    Running yes there are wooden clips set into slots along the inside of the apron. I didn’t show it, but once you see one mortise chopped you have seen them all.

    Bois, I’ll leave the Benny Hill music for you.

    Thanks Kari, this was a great experience but I’m glad to have my thickness planer back.

PickeringMike

Nicely done. That is one beauty of a table. I’ve enjoyed this series and look forward to your take on the Earlex as well as your next project.

ChrisG

Hey Shannon,

I see you use a Philly Planes skewed miter plane when transferring your dovetails marks (I think that’s what you said it was in an earlier episode). However, at the shooting board I’ve never seen you use anything but your LV Low Angle Jack. Any particular reason for this? That wooden miter plane seems like it would be pretty sweet.

    Shannon

    Chris this is a good question and very observant of you. I normally use my Philly Plane on the shooting board exclusively and for laying out the pins because it’s broad side face makes it a good registering surface. During this video shoot however, I stupidly dropped the blade onto the concrete floor and put a huge ding in the blade. So as not to lose my momentum I switched over to the LA Jack for shooting. So far I haven’t found anything that beat the performance of that Philly plane on the shooting board.