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Chips ‘n Tips #5 Gimmie a Gimlet

Win woodworking prizesIt seems like everybody has at least one of these little twisted and sharpened pieces of wire floating around the shop. They are called Gimlets and can save your but in a tight situation. Not only do I keep some of these in my bit roll in the tool cabinet, but I have several of them in my tool tote and toolboxes for whenever I’m working outside the shop. they are indispensable when working with cut nails or screws or anything that requires a pilot hole. And they can go where drills fear to tread into the deepest, darkest recesses of dusty inside corners!

This Episode’s Winner is Jeremy Johnson

veritas saw file holderJeremy chose a Veritas Saw File Guide from the prize list. Congratuations Jeremy and make sure you check out the video I did on this great little tool for aiding in saw sharpening.
To register to win prizes with each Chips ‘n Tips episode, visit http://www.renaissancewoodworker.com/chipsntips

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Adam

Can you compare the function and advantages of these vs a bird cage awl?

    Shannon

    Good question Adam. The birdcage awl cuts like a center bit in that is cuts away material with the sharp arises of the pyramidal point. It does not wedge the wood apart like a lead screw on a Gimlet or auger bit. This means that you do need to be able to exert a bit of downward pressure to get the birdcage (or brad awl) to cut whereas the lead screw does that for you on a Gimlet. This is really nice in tight quarters. Moreover, a birdcage awl will cut a bigger hole based on the maximum width of the pyramid. A gimlet only cuts a hole that corresponds to the diameter of the shank. Finally while you can drill through a thicker board with a birdcage awl, it is inefficient past about 1/4-1/2″ of depth. A Gimlet can bore as deep as the shank with no additional difficulty, though you may have to back it out to clear the waste from the flutes on really deep holes. In that case using an auger bit would be much better. I reserve my birdcage awl and brad awl for shallow holes in thin stock (no wedging means no splitting) or as a way to mark starting points for another type of bit.

Rob Porcaro

Hi Shannon,

Clear and informative, as always.

Here’s a simple alteration to gimlets that markedly improves their performance:
http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/10/19/improving-gimlets-yes-they-can-work/

A plan B (C, really) that I find helpful is a mini ¼”-hex ratchet driver from the hardware store used with short hex-shank brad-point drill bits sold by Lee Valley.

Rob

    Shannon

    Thanks Rob, I remember this post. I made this alteration to several of my gimlets too. I suppose I’ll do it to the rest when the need arises too.