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Miter Paring Block from Ebony

12 years ago

A few weeks ago, I published a quick video about using wood scraps as practice pieces to improve your sawing and/or planing skills. I hope it goes without saying that I am only cutting up the pieces that I know I either won’t need or have plenty of the same species floating around that I won’t miss the scrap. At the same time, if the scrap in question is of a valuable species, I will save every last inch. In face the irony is that the smaller the scrap the more likely it is that it will get saved. Members of The Hand Tool School can attest that I have a drawer in my shop that I often will pluck out just the perfect piece of exotic to wedge a tenon or peg a joint. When I “purposely” cut a tenon too loose (for demonstration purposes of course), out comes a little square of wood that I glue back on to the anorexic cheek before re-cutting the tenon. The shim I use to adjust the cutting width of my dado plane is of quartersawn beech and it came from the same drawer. There are 1001 times when you need a little piece of something while working on a project and not having to break down a larger board to get that tiny piece is a huge time saver. When you can use that tiny piece as a design element by substituting in a cool exotic, all the better.

So this weekend when I needed to build a small miter paring block, I could have built it from the hunk of Home Depot Poplar sitting at the front of my lumber rack but instead I consulted the scrap drawer. Now my choices were Quilted Maple, Spalted Hornbeam, Curly Claro Walnut, Quartersawn Grenadillo, Ziracote, Quartersawn White Oak, and Macassar Ebony. I love this scrap drawer!

Ebony Miter Paring BlockIt’s a funny side effect of selling off my power tools, but I find that even the little shop aids I build get the royal treatment. You see it takes the same amount of effort and time to build a miter block by hand no matter what species you use. I might as well use up some of this scrap and make this simple gauge an heirloom tool. So finally after about 7 years this little hunk of Macassar Ebony has found a home. And not an inch of it went to waste. When I sawed out the large rabbet, I adhered that fall off piece to the front as a grip to help me hold the paring block firmly in place while in use. It was glued in place firmly but why not sweeten the deal with some brass screws? In the end, I have a paring block that will make me smile each time I use it, and it is well made enough that it just might show up at an antique sale 300 years from now.

By the way, this block would have been made faster in any other species. Dang that Ebony is hard stuff!

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Dan Roper

Beautiful work.

Bob Easton

It lLooks great, of course, but needs one more thing.

“Clock” those screws. 🙂

Robert Pridgen

It’s hard, but that makes it great for inlays for plane mouths or wear strips on marking gauges, etc. I love it!

Joe

i often read about a shooting board, is your ebony paring block the same thing? Please explain how each are used. I am seriously considering selling off my power equipment and using the antique tools I have collected from time to time.
Thanks and have appears ant day
Joe

    Shannon

    No a paring block is not the same as a shooting board. I have several posts here about shooting boards. Here is one I made myself and here is a review of a premium one I bought. If you search “shooting board” in the search box you will get all kinds of articles and projects where I have used a shooting board. In fact my latest video on the home page features a display shelf and you will see the shooting board being used to square up the end of the board for the legs. In general though you place a board on the shooting board and then run a plane along the chute with fixes its aspect to the board and trues up the edge of the board.

    A paring block is place on the board and used as a reference face to register a chisel against to pare the wood to that angle or shape. In this instance I use this block to pare in 45 degree angles on cope and stick rails and stiles where the interior ovolo profile has to meet at a 45 degree angle. I’ve also created rounded profile paring blocks to aid in shaping a concave surface. Really any shape you can think of can be made easier with a custom paring block.