Wood Talk Online 95
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On today’s show, we’re answering your emails and voice mails again. When to change your respirator cartridges, basement woodworking and the impact on HVAC, strategies concerning beading on a drawer front, polyurethane flammability, good woods to practice your planing, ebony species for G&G work, and cutting bevel angles exceeding 45 degrees.
What’s on the Bench?
Matt: Back from Vacation…Do not confuse Pirates of the Caribbean ride with Williamsburg re-enactors!
Marc: Re-building an old prototype project and finishing up the Split-Top Roubo.
Shannon: Shaker clock and Spring Pole lathe
Around the Web:
Fine Woodworking April Fools
2012 WIA registration now open for both locations
2012 WIA Buddy Tracker Spreadsheet
Nintendo Controller Table
Baychico.com
Star Trek Enterprise Coffee Table
Listener Emails:
Chris Landy
I have a question regarding respirators. I have the 3M 7500 Series Reusable Half Facepiece, Model 7503
It’s the one that Marc recommended way back when on his video “Dust in Time”. I use it for heavy sanding and finishing in my tiny shop, but I am not sure how often I should swap out the filters. How do i know when they are spent and know longer doing their job.
Aaron Cashion
I will finally have my first shop, and it,will be in the basement. The only concern I have is my hvac equipment is down there. Do you have this issue, and if so what do you recommend for keeping this thing clean? I will have a cyclone and an air cleaner. I would appreciate any advice at this point.
J – One in Millions
I am making a jewelry box for my wife. She wants Zebrawood fronts on the drawers. My thought was to build the drawers out of walnut and use some shop made veneer for the fronts with an 1/8″ Wenge bead around the edge.
1. How do you recommend I make the 1/16″ round overs on the 1/8″ bead?
2. I’m also open to other dark woods for the bead because I’ve heard Wenge splinters terribly.
3. I’ve read recommendations about creating a sort of shop made plywood for the drawer fronts in order to give the fronts stability which would help the bead stay on the ends by reducing movement across the grain. It sounded good to me because it would help the bead stay on the end and for the second reason that my wife wants the zebra wood to run vertically. I read that the minimum number of layers for this process is 5. Considering I was shooting for a 1/2″ thick max front it sounds like a pain because the veneers are thin. What are your thoughts on this theory and is it required for drawer fronts where the largest front is about 8″ wide and 3″ tall?
4. Will the bead stay on over time with the above method and which glue do you recommend?
Voicemails
Nathan – Concerned about Polyurethane flammability
Aaron – What woods do we recommend for hand plane practice?
Brad – What type of ebony for G&G and will Brazilian Ebony work too?
Daniel – Has a bevel to cut that exceeds 45 degrees. How would we go about cutting it?
